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terrain bases warping.
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Old 12 Jul 2007, 01:45   #1 (permalink)
Shas'Saal
 
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Default terrain bases warping.

i've recently began making some GT terrain bits for my friends and myself and I've come across the issue of base warping. i've used a 12" x 12" corrugated cardboard square to begin my terrain and it's had the noted misfortune of slightly warping upwards at the corners. i was thinking of either applying a thin coating of PVA to the bottom once i was finished in hopes it would 'warp-back' and balance itself out, or simply hard-mounting all future projects on thin plywood.

your thoughts?
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Old 12 Jul 2007, 02:10   #2 (permalink)
Shas'Ui
 
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Default Re: terrain bases warping.

I think the problem may be the cardboard. It tends to warp and not do as well as other bases. I can't remember what people normally use, but I think it's called masonite hardboard, or something like that. I'm sure one of the other members will know what it is called.
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Old 13 Jul 2007, 02:27   #3 (permalink)
Shas'La
 
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Default Re: terrain bases warping.

You want to use: MDF = Medium Density Fiberboard.

It won't warp like thin plywood, or cardboard.

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Old 13 Jul 2007, 03:58   #4 (permalink)
Shas'La
 
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Default Re: terrain bases warping.

foamcore boards never warp for me ....
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Old 13 Jul 2007, 05:23   #5 (permalink)
Shas'La
 
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Default Re: terrain bases warping.

Hard pink house insulation foam works great. (Not the soft drywall insulation)
Its good for terrain bases, making gaming tables and for sculpting on a model base.
And for about $10-15 for a sheet of 8' by 2'... the price is right.
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Old 13 Jul 2007, 12:25   #6 (permalink)
Shas'O
 
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Default Re: terrain bases warping.

Heya,
Cardboard bases will almost always warp when they get wet (with paint or glue). There are very few ways to get them to warp back (as the glue hardens and holds them in place). You could try non-water solvent glue (i.e. thinner based) but it may do the same thing and you'll probably have a hard time finding it (v.o.c. regulations).

MDF or house insulation are good choices. They can be cut with a jigsaw or scrollsaw. The problem is that they tend to be a little fragile if someone decides to poke a hole in them (especially the pink house insullation).

My personal recommendation is Gatorfoam. It's expensive, though. So be prepared for sticker shock. You can find it at MicroMark. You can buy it direct - but I had to buy a box of something lik 48 2'x3' boards. It was cheaper and I've used them all. ;D But that's a lot of product.

Gatorfoam is a stiff foam between two chemically treated wood fiber boards. It is 3/16" thick and very durable (though the corners will bend and chip if you abuse them. The best part is that it is completely waterproof. That means no warping and no issues when your buddy inadvertantly puts his beer mug on your terrain.

Anyway, hope this helps.
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Old 23 Jul 2007, 08:49   #7 (permalink)
Shas'Saal
 
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Default Re: terrain bases warping.

Hi there I've been making terrain for a long time now and despite my efforts I have never found a way of stopping corrugated or any other form of card from warping. I've also tried reversing the warping effect by applying PVA etc onto the bottom side of the base but the results are very limited. Hence I have a cityfight board with many upturned street kerbs (building footprints)!

Having quit 40k now in order to concentrate on fantasy (which took me 10 years to admit to my mates that yes, it is a far better game) i've started making a new terrain board with my girlfriend. Since she has started Bretonnians and I've started Wood Elves we've decide to make a board based on the Quenelles/Athel Loren border (pics to follow soon) and we've been using a few different materials from before. The most noticable imporvement we've found is using thin hardboard (it's about 2 for a 2' x 4' from B+Q). So far none of our new terrain pieces have suffered from warping bases which is fantastic. Additionally I've found that with bevelling the sides (i.e using a scapel to cut away at the side of the base at a 45 degree angle) the hardboard merges much nicer with the gaming board itself without having to use polyfiller to fill in any nasty gaps left with corrgugated cardboard.

Hope that helps
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