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Board Prep
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Old 11 Jan 2006, 13:02   #1 (permalink)
Shas'Vre
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Island Republic of FreedomLand
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Default Board Prep

Thanks to my very gracious wife and a friend from her shop we now have a 3/4" thick 4x8 sheet of plywood. YAY!

I've heard the official board size is 4x6 so I was going to trim off two feet. 4x6 IS right, isn't it?

My dilemma is that, to be honest, it's heavy. Like, "needs-two-people-to-safely-lift" heavy. In order to deal with this I've decided that the board will probably need to be divided into smaller sections.

How many smaller sections though and how to attach them in the question. I've thought about just two 4x3 sections which WOULD be easier but ultimately might still be difficult to transport around the house (even if it's not too far, easier is always better). So then I got to thinking what about four 2x3 sections. That would be good for the "four quarters" gametype I've heard about and would allow you to simply stack the pieces when you're not using them.


I've got a small possible issue with that, though. The board is going to be rested upon a 7x3.5 dining room table. While two 4x3 sections would have no problem with falling off I'm concerned about the center of gravity of four 2x3 sections. Would they fall off? And if they would I imagine a hinge system would be best but what kind of recessed hinge system (or hinges) would you recommend?

Any thoughts on how to prep the board are welcome. For the aesthetic side of it I'm thinking about sanding it a bit and spraypainting it (probably black) just so it's not woodgrain 'cause that can kind of mess with the scenery. Maybe sanding the corners, but generally it's just going to be a surface.
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Old 11 Jan 2006, 14:15   #2 (permalink)
Shas'La
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

I've seen quite nice boards that were divided into three apx. 4x3 pieces. The pieces don't get too heavy, and they even fit nicely into the trunk of a station wagon, if you somehow happen to have access to one.
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Old 11 Jan 2006, 14:17   #3 (permalink)
Kroot Shaper
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

Hmmm, depends on what you want to do with it.

If you simply want to make it a large table you can take down, then why not two sections? Two should be moveable.

If on the other hand you are actually building a table with terrain built into it, then you may want to make it 6 2x2 foot sections
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Old 11 Jan 2006, 14:27   #4 (permalink)
Shas'Vre
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

No station wagons exist on this island, just some hatchbacks but none that would be big enough anyway. It's some kind of European thing I don't quite understand.

Yeah, it's going to be just a board that *should* stay in the house but should be able to be taken down (we DO like having a dining room table). In the end it will just be a plain surface, no terrain molded into it because I like having modular terrain.

Reason I thought about the quartered 2x3 sections was for the "hold areas of the gameboard" gametype and further space conservation. If I had a pair of recessed hinges it'd be a simple matter but I'd need to order those. Kinda humorous how I can't get some of these simple items here.
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Old 11 Jan 2006, 16:06   #5 (permalink)
Kroot Shaper
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

Personally I would cut it in 2x2 pieces that way you can move the pieces around if you want variety and 2nd of all 2x2 board is easier to move around then 4x3.

To hold all these pieces up I think you should build base out of 2''x4'' something like this

=======x======
|| ||
|| ||
=======x======

Simply cut it down the middle (where there is an x) and make some kind of inset joint for them to interconnect and bed well fixed. Ok it will be kind of big but if you are good with inset joints you could cut it but a bit more.

If you have never done inset joints don't forget to cut your pieces bit longer to compensate for then inset (1 inches extra on each end should be good)

Anyway that is what I'm going to do for my board when I get the money
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Old 11 Jan 2006, 22:34   #6 (permalink)
Shas'Vre
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

I don't think I explained myself properly. There is no need to move pieces around because like I said it's "just" a flat surface, nothing more. I like having modular terrain and I can't afford to go out and get 4x8 sheets of plywood here ($36 USD for 1/4" thick) whenever I want to make a new piece. Also the 2x2 pieces at the edge of my 3.5" wide table might fall off under stress and that's a real concern. I get the feeling that two longer 4x3 sections would have enough weight on either side of the overhang off the table to not be an issue but if I divided them into four 2x3 sections they might though I'd hope not.


While I have not made recessed hinges before the routing concept to set it deep into the wood isn't beyond me (I've several DJ equipment cases that use that so I've got some good examples.


I notice a few people saying they use 4x8 sized boards. Isn't 4x8 a little, you know, BIG? If you were playing a 2500 point army I could see it but that sounds and even looks just a little bit overboard for units where the average firing range is 12~24".
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Old 12 Jan 2006, 03:08   #7 (permalink)
GOD
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Default Re: Board Prep

What I would do if I where you:

Don't use the hinges, I'm not sure how big your dinning room table is or how thick the board is, so I'm making a lot of assumptions. My reasoning is a lot of stress could be put on the hinges and they could either tip or break with expensive, and disastrous results for anything on the board.

What I would do is make a frame to "extend" the edges of your dinning table out of 1" x 2". Make the frame collapsible, so that way it can be easily stored. Then cut your ply wood into 2' x 2' sections and set them up as needed.

It's reasonably simple, easy to store and versatile.
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Old 12 Jan 2006, 09:53   #8 (permalink)
Shas'Vre
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOD
What I would do if I where you:

Don't use the hinges, I'm not sure how big your dinning room table is or how thick the board is, so I'm making a lot of assumptions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOXX
The board is going to be rested upon a 7x3.5 dining room table.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FOXX
...we now have a 3/4" thick...
;D

Quote:
My reasoning is a lot of stress could be put on the hinges and they could either tip or break with expensive, and disastrous results for anything on the board.
That's a good point. No hinges.

Quote:
What I would do is make a frame to "extend" the edges of your dinning table out of 1" x 2". Make the frame collapsible, so that way it can be easily stored. Then cut your ply wood into 2' x 2' sections and set them up as needed.

It's reasonably simple, easy to store and versatile.
Hmm, I suppose. Still, don't know what I'd use to make the frame. If it's yet more plywood that's not happening because, as stated, I'm not going to pay $36 for a 4x8 sheet, that's just exorbitant. On top of that there's no other wood here on the island that I can buy unless you know someone who would ship 2x4s and such.

Oh well. Guess I'll just need to work up the balancing points and break out the physics book when it gets here.
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Old 12 Jan 2006, 11:41   #9 (permalink)
Shas'La
 
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Default Re: Board Prep

what i would do is cut it in half it will be fine
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Old 12 Jan 2006, 23:57   #10 (permalink)
GOD
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Default Re: Board Prep

So I have the patience of a marmoset on speed. Well given the size of the table, don't worry about it. The table is plenty wide enough to support the board, especially given the mass of the ply. Just make sure the overhang is equal on both sides.
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