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Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 01:06   #1 (permalink)
Kroot Shaper
 
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Default Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

[size=12pt]Should I buy a Forge World Model? – A Guide[/size]

You’ve seen ‘em. Outlandish models with incredible detail, that are taken out of the case with reverence, when they are taken out at all. Forge World models are amazing, and I am a big fan of them (I own over a dozen myself).

Having said that, if I had known what it was to build one of these critters when I ordered my first one, I may have waited until my hobby skills improved…a whole bunch. If you are considering your first Forge World purchase, please consider the following questions very carefully:

1. Are you a patient modeler and painter?

Forge World models tend to take roughly three times as long to build (or more) than your basic GW model, and painting “on the sprue” (painting each individual piece before it is glued in place) is almost mandatory. Forge World sprues must be carefully washed in warm water and dish soap before construction begins, to eliminate the “release” that they apply to the resin to get it out of the mold. If you don’t wash it, your paint ain’t gonna look good…at all. If you don’t love these aspects of the hobby then Forge World models are not for you.

2. Are you cool with Green Stuff?

Forge World models are incredibly detailed; that’s part of their appeal. The problem with detail like this is that blemishes or joints that most would tolerate on a GW plastic model show up like a three-year-old’s bedsheet when next to detail this crisp. In addition to this, almost every Forge World model I’ve ever built has fit issues far beyond what I would put up with on a normal plastic model. I’m talking joints wider than 2 millimeters here, and pieces that don’t even come close to fitting together. If you aren’t comfortable with, or cannot tolerate Green Stuff patching, then Forge World models are not for you.

3. Do you own a Dremel (or similar) moto-tool?

I just spent the last hour sucking down large quantities of resin kicked up from my trusty Dremel, all to make a Piranha’s engine (that’s one engine mind you…still have to do the other one) fit like it should. I absolutely shudder to think of how long that would have taken with a standard file. A rotary tool is an absolute must when building a Forge World model, no two ways about it. If you don’t own one, are too young to use one or simply hate the things, then Forge World models are not for you.

4. Like your fingers? How about your lungs?

I have a bad habit. I trim mould lines (and sprue), and do some basic shaving and adjustments with my x-acto knife. I shouldn’t do that, but I’m comfortable with the thing and I’m pretty good at using it. Forge World models are made from resin, which is a damn sight harder than plastic. If you trim like I trim, you are at great risk of cutting yourself a new one. Everything is more difficult when working with resin, and the potential for injury is much greater. On top of this, resin makes a fine (and very unhealthy) dust when sanding…a lot of it. A well-ventilated room (including a fan to assist said ventilation) and perhaps even a dust mask is a requirement. If the above facts turn you off, then Forge World models are not for you.

Are you still with me? Congratulations! You may indeed be a nut-job like myself that enjoys the exquisite pain/pleasure of coaxing a Forge World model to life. Happy modeling, and keep the band-aids handy (duct tape will give you a rash).
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 01:34   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Nice guide. If I was the cosmos or a mod I'd give you karma, but alas I am only a wierdo who likes to do admiral akbar impressions
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 03:52   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

This may be true, but what about the characters? Specifically the Elysians, Tallarns, Cadians, the really small stuff. It doesn't seem like there's room for mistakes there... but is there?
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 04:31   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colonel_Sanders
This may be true, but what about the characters? Specifically the Elysians, Tallarns, Cadians, the really small stuff. It doesn't seem like there's room for mistakes there... but is there?
I would say most deffinetly, even more than on the large models where small mistakes can go unnoticed but on the small models... lots of room for error there.
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 11:57   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Nice post. I wish I had waited before my first forgeworld product, as I totally wrecked a £60 barracuda...... still havent attempted to fix that..
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 13:57   #6 (permalink)
Shas'Ui
 
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by TauberAlles
Forge World models tend to take roughly three times as long to build (or more) than your basic GW model, and painting “on the sprue” (painting each individual piece before it is glued in place) is almost mandatory.
I'm curious about this part. I'm currently starting to assemble my first Forgeworld model (an XV81-variant Crisis suit), and I'd like to know how important pre-assembly painting is before I start gluing bits together. Does it matter whether I'm using a spray-on undercoat? Is it alright to be gluing two already-painted surfaces together, or is the join likely to be insecure if the paint doesn't bond strongly enough to the resin?

Some of the fiddly bits (ie, the weapons and support systems) are going to be separate components, held on by rare earth magnets, so I'm painting them separately anyway. I'm finding it a bit more difficult to cut a magnet-sized hole in resin rather than plastic, though.
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 14:21   #7 (permalink)
Shas'Vre
 
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vash113
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colonel_Sanders
This may be true, but what about the characters? Specifically the Elysians, Tallarns, Cadians, the really small stuff. It doesn't seem like there's room for mistakes there... but is there?
I would say most deffinetly, even more than on the large models where small mistakes can go unnoticed but on the small models... lots of room for error there.
man that kind of sucks... oh well I guess my command HQ will be harder than I thought. (I was thinking of using the tank commander torsos, put legs on 'em, and they'd look awesome.)

Abanim, about your wrecked barracuda: Have you considered makind it scenery? Put it on a flocked base with the ground all torn up underneath it and drill holes in the parts to look like weapons fire and stuff. Use it just as cover or as an objective marker.
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 14:52   #8 (permalink)
Kroot Shaper
 
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abanim
Quote:
Originally Posted by TauberAlles
Forge World models tend to take roughly three times as long to build (or more) than your basic GW model, and painting “on the sprue” (painting each individual piece before it is glued in place) is almost mandatory.
I'm curious about this part. I'm currently starting to assemble my first Forgeworld model (an XV81-variant Crisis suit), and I'd like to know how important pre-assembly painting is before I start gluing bits together.
The FW crisis variants can be more forgiving, but I would definately pre-paint the torso and the jetpack/SMS prior to bonding. You'll thank yourself later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abanim
Does it matter whether I'm using a spray-on undercoat? Is it alright to be gluing two already-painted surfaces together, or is the join likely to be insecure if the paint doesn't bond strongly enough to the resin?
I would highly recommend against bonding any painted surfaces. Even if you do acheive a strong bond (which you may not), the paint will work loose after a while. As an aside, please note that pinning is often a very good idea with resin models, as all of your bonds are going to be brittle (super glue adhesive).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abanim
Some of the fiddly bits (ie, the weapons and support systems) are going to be separate components, held on by rare earth magnets, so I'm painting them separately anyway. I'm finding it a bit more difficult to cut a magnet-sized hole in resin rather than plastic, though.
Excellent idea. I use REMs for crisis suits, and anything with the words "head", "fish" or "ray" in it. Piranhas I take a pass on, as I can't imagine using too many burst cannons. I have had trouble with pin and mounting holes in resin too. I particularly hate it when your bit finds a "bubble" in the resin and decides to take off in an entirely new and unexpected direction. My only advice there is to use a Dremel to drill (not a pin vice), and go slow.

Colonel Sanders:
I concur with Vash. Small models can be just as flawed as the big ones, although most tend not to be. I've received (and returned) two that were so badly deformed that they were pretty much irreparable. Having said that, the small models are SO worth it if you have the time, tools and patience.

Forbidden and Fish:
Thanks!
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 15:37   #9 (permalink)
Kroot Shaper
 
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

Abanim:

I would strongly recommend pre-painting the upper arms on that thing as well. Those shoulder pads make getting a brush in there next to impossible.
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Old 15 Jun 2006, 20:18   #10 (permalink)
Shas'Ui
 
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Default Re: Should I buy a Forge World Model? - A Guide

I find using off-white Tamiya puddy is the best thing for filling the medium to small voids. While the large voids should be filled with an epoxy, then finished with a puddy. Dremels should be used only to make rough or large area changes. A Dremel can be your best friend or your worst enemy. I have experienced both. I have a Barracuda and bitz for landraiders,... All needed some work most was done with just some sand paper, files, and a hobby knife.
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